PowerPoint Presentation

CHECK LIST: FOR A HEALTHY DOG

Congrats on your new pet! This welcome kit is a great reference for tips from Cascade Pet Hospital on how to

keep your pup healthy and happy.

NECESSITIES

• Nutritious Foods & Treats

• Bowls - Ceramic or Stainless Steel

for Food & Water

• Leash & Collar & Harness ID Tag &

Microchip

• Crate

• Potty Training Aids

• Therapeutic Chew Toys

• Stain Remover & Odor Eliminator

Shampoo & Conditioner

• Brush or Comb Poop Bags

• Flea & Tick Preventative Heartworm

Preventative

• Toothbrush Kit & Dental Aids

• Obedience Training (Formal

Classes, Books, etc.)

• Routine Exams with your

Veterinarian

OTHER SUGGESTED ITEMS

• Dog Treats & Cookies (low calorie)

• Nail Trimmer & Styptic Powder

• Air-Tight Food Container & Scoop

• Regular Grooming Program Dog

Bed

• Short/Long Term Confinement Area

• Books on Dog Care (breed specific)

• De-Shedding Tool

DAILY PET CHECK: FOR A HEALTHY DOG

MY PET

• Is acting normal, active and happy.

• Does not tire easily after moderate exercise. Does not have seizures or fainting

episodes.

• Has a normal appetite, with no significant weight change. Does not vomit or regurgitate

food.

• Has normal appearing bowel movements (firm, formed, mucus-free). Doesn’t scoot on

the floor or chew under the tail excessively.

• Has a full glossy coat with no missing hair, mats or excessive shedding. Doesn’t

scratch, lick or chew excessively.

• Has skin that is free of dry flakes, not greasy, and is odor-free. Is free from fleas, ticks

or mites.

• Has a body free from lumps and bumps. Has ears that are clean and odor-free.

• Doesn’t shake head or dig at ears.

• Doesn’t rub face and ears on the carpet after eating. Has eyes that are bright, clear and

free of discharge.

• Has normal hearing and reactions to the environment. Walks without stiffness, pain or

difficulty.

• Has healthy looking feet and short nails (including dewclaws). Breathes normally,

without straining or coughing.

• Has normal thirst and drinks the usual amount of water at the same frequency.

• Urinates in the usual amount and frequency; color is normal, no unusual odor.

• Has a moist nose, free of discharge.

• Has clean white teeth, free from plaque, tartar or bad breath.

• Has gums that are moist and pink with no redness, swelling or offensive odor.

• Has no offensive habits (biting, chewing, scratching, or spraying urine, or aggressive

behavior.

PUPPY PROOF: UPDATES TO MAKE

When you bring home a new puppy, it's important to balance your excitement with a plan for puppy

proofing your home. These tips will help you prepare for his arrival:

Through Your Dog's Eyes

Before you bring your new best friend home, make sure it's a safe place. Check for any safety hazards

that could hurt a curious animal. Wondering what to look out for? Start by walking around your home

identifying loose wires and exposed electrical cords. Puppies like to chew, and unfortunately these

cables are very tempting. Tape down or secure any that cannot be moved or hide small ones on a

shelf he can't get to.

Do you have kids in the house? Invite them to the puppy proofing game. Down on your hands and

knees, pretend to be puppies yourselves. This technique lets you better identify any toys, objects, or

even trash your dog could try to eat. If there's an area of your home that's impossible to clean up, such

as a playroom, keep your dog away by closing the door or installing a baby gate. Barriers can be good

to keep at the top or bottom of the stairs, especially if you have a small or a toy breed dog that could

be hurt by a tumble.

Those Aren't Chew Toys

It's easy for your dog to mistake items around your home for his personal playthings. Start by

unplugging any small appliances after you use them. For example, don't leave your hair dryer plugged

in with its cord dangling where puppy can pull or chew it. Chewed cables can be hazardous to

everyone in your home and frayed wires could spark and cause an electrical fire.

Cords aren't the only items your dog may want to chomp on. In fact, puppies love teething on shoes,

and you probably have many pairs at entrances or open closets. Whether you own high heels,

sandals, sneakers, or boots, dogs don't discriminate when looking for a toy or afternoon snack. If your

new puppy gets into your footwear, he could ruin your shoes, or even worse, bite off pieces that could

be choking hazards. Keep them closed off in a room or compartment where your dog can't access

them. It's best to train him what are and are not toys from an early age to help save you from financial

headaches, having to replace shoes, rugs, clothing, children's toys, and more.

Wet Spots and Hot Spots

Even if you have taken the time to clean up and puppy proof, there are many common household

items that can be dangerous to a new pup. Certain areas of your home need puppy proofing. Do you

have a pool in your backyard? Be sure it's gated off so your dog can't jump in. Although some dogs

are strong swimmers, a pool still poses a drowning risk for puppies who are left unattended.

All hot spots are no-no's for puppies, whether it's a fireplace, electric heater, or wood stove. Secure

the perimeter of each heat source, and, with training, reinforce that this is not a puppy-friendly area.

Plants, Cleaners, and Medicine

Houseplants add gorgeous greenery to your home, but some plants are extremely toxic to dogs. Know

which plants are toxic—such as mistletoe, chrysanthemums, and lilies, among others—and remove

any you currently have inside. Many household cleaners and similar products can be just as

dangerous if ingested. Keep your pet away from volatile substances in your garage such as oil, car

cleaners, rock salt, and antifreeze.

PUPPY PROOF: UPDATES TO MAKE

Also, canines can get confused over medications or vitamins they think are treats. Keep them stored

safely in a high cabinet where neither kids nor pups can get to them. The same goes for dishwasher or

laundry detergent, both of which should be stored out of reach—preferably in a locked closet (dogs

can open them otherwise)!

Keep the Floor Clean

Keep a careful eye on what ends up on the floor once you bring your dog home. Yes, you and your

family crawled around to pick up tiny items to protect your dog before you brought him home. This

needs to be done again on occasion once he moves in. Clean up anything that falls on the floor when

cooking; foods like chocolate are well known to be harmful to dogs. Your eager companion could just

as easily choke on small items or eat something that causes trouble during digestion, like floss or a

rubber band. Vacuum or sweep your floors regularly to prevent any of these scary issues.

Protect Your Belongings

Not only do you want to keep your puppy safe, but you should also protect your belongings from him.

No one wants to see a chewed-up couch, scratched door, or broken irreplaceable keepsake when

they get home. The first step is prevention. If there's anything you wouldn't want ruined or broken,

move it temporarily. Use washable blankets and liners to prevent any accidents from staining your

couch, and puppy-safe bitter sprays can be used on exposed wood to repel chew-crazy pooches. A

large glass urn on your floor may deserve a new home on a side table or in a closet until your puppy is

tame enough to navigate it. Consider this for any heirlooms that can be peed on, chewed up, or

broken.

Plan for Mischief

Even with the best puppy proofing and dog training regimen, it's likely that your furry family member

will still find ways to get in trouble. But be patient with him; a puppy needs to learn the rules before he

can handle your responses if he breaks them. He doesn't know your old house slippers aren't chew

toys until you teach him. He may also think the kitchen garbage can is one tall doggy bowl filled with a

great selection of dinner treats. Don't let this potential overwhelm you—most situations can be

addressed as they happen. Practice your dog-training techniques so that your dog will know what he

can and cannot play with.

It only takes a little time to puppy proof your home, and your dog will be grateful to live in such a safe

place. As he grows with your family, watch him learn what's allowed inside, and you'll find yourself

having to put in less effort to remind him. Until then, keep your new puppy safe from any possible

hazards.

FAQ: SPAYING & NEUTERING FOR DOGS

Will spaying or neutering cause my pet to become overweight and lazy?

Spaying or neutering your pet will not necessarily make your pet become overweight and

lazy. Heredity, diet, and how much and what type of exercise has more influence on the

weight and attitude of your pet than does the surgery.

Is spaying or neutering dangerous?

There is always a risk while a patient is under general anesthesia, whether the patient is

human or animal. Veterinary procedures are very similar to human medical procedures. The

risk is very small in healthy animals; and we take extra precautions for your pet’s comfort,

safety, and recovery.

Should I wait until my pet has had a litter?

The answer to this question is NO.

When is the best time to have my pet undergo this procedure?

The best age for spaying and neutering is around five months of age. The first heat cycle in a

female cat usually occurs around this time. Neutering your pet prevents many undesirable

behavior patterns.

BENEFITS OF SPAYING

• Eliminates Heat Cycles

• Prevents Accidental Pregnancies

• Significantly Reduces Undesirable

Behavior

• Prevents Uterine Infections &

Other Common In Pets

• Significantly Reduces Mammary

Tumors

BENEFITS OF NEUTERING

• Significantly Reduces Prostate &

Testicular Disease or Cancer

• Reduces Undesirable Behavior

EMERGENCY CONTACTS: INFO

ANIMAL MEDICAL CENTER OF SEATTLE

206-204-3366

17518 15th Avenue NE

Shoreline, WA 98155

CASCADE PET HOSPITAL

206-501-2565

14731 Aurora Ave N Shoreline, WA, 98133

For emergencies outside of our business hours, please contact one of the

following emergency hospitals.

Monday

8:00 am

8:00 pm

Tuesday

8:00 am

6:00 pm

Wednesday

8:00 am

8:00 pm

Thursday

8:00 am

6:00 pm

Friday

8:00 am

6:00 pm

Saturday

8:00 am

4:00 pm

Sunday

CLOSED

CRATE TRAINING: YOUR PUPPY

CRATING A PUPPY

A crate should always be large enough to permit your dog to stretch out flat on his side without

being cramped and to sit up without hitting his head on the top. Measure your dog from the tip of

their nose to the base of their tail. In the instance that a crate is too large for a growing puppy,

purchase a crate that comes with a partition so you can adjust it as your puppy grows. If the crate is

too large your puppy will sleep in one end and use the other end as a bathroom.

The crate should be placed in or as close to a “people” area as possible, like the kitchen, family

room, or bedroom.

A young puppy (8-16 weeks) should normally have no problem accepting the crate as their “own

place.” Your pet may bark when first placed in the crate during the early stages of training. He or she

is simply learning to accept this new environment.

For bedding, use a towel or blanket that can be easily washed. A nylon bed is also a great option

because it is easy to clean and durable. Avoid putting newspaper in or under the crate, as it may

encourage elimination.

Make it clear to all family members that the crate is NOT a playhouse. Its purpose is to be a special

and comforting room for the puppy. You should not however allow your puppy to become

overprotective of the crate. Your puppy should allow you to reach into the crate at any time.

Establish the “crate routine” immediately, closing the puppy in at regular intervals throughout the day

and whenever your puppy must be left alone for up to 3-4 hours. Consider removing your puppy’s

collar and tags because they could get caught.

YOU CAN

• Enjoy peace of mind when leaving your

dog at home alone, knowing that

nothing can be soiled or destroyed, and

your pet is protected.

• Housebreak your dog quickly, using

confinement to encourage control.

• Prevent “accidents” at night or when left

alone.

• Effectively confine your dog when over-

excited or bothered.

• Travel with your dog without risk of the

driver being distracted or your dog

getting loose

YOUR DOG CAN

• Enjoy the privacy and security of a

“den” of their own.

• Easily learn to control their bowels and

to associate elimination only with the

outdoors or other designated locations.

• Be conveniently included in family

outings, visits, and trips instead of being

left behind.

• Stay out of trouble when you’re not

around

SOCIALIZING: YOUR PUPPY

It may sound overwhelming and difficult, but socializing your puppy is really quite easy, and doing it

early will help ensure that your puppy matures into a friendly, adult dog that is a joy to be around.

When to start socializing

You can't start socializing soon enough. The benefits of early socialization simply cannot be

overemphasized, but the good news is that it's easy and can be fun for both you and your puppy. All

you must do is take him out and about as much as you can and as soon as possible. And with first

vaccinations being offered at six weeks, you can take him out of the house earlier than ever before.

Try not to do too much too soon. It is best to build up your puppy's new experiences slowly at first.

Your puppy and other people

People come in all different shapes and sizes and your puppy should have the opportunity to

encounter them all. Get him used to strangers but be careful that they don't scare or overwhelm him

with a strong show of affection.

It's important that your puppy becomes acquainted with children, too. Even if there aren't any children

in the house, get him to meet some outside. Take him on walks in the park, where you are sure to

encounter children who will be drawn to your cuddly new puppy. Arrange meetings with friends who

have well-behaved children for controlled positive interactions.

Don't forget that puppies can become tired quickly; make sure that meeting times with new people are

kept quite short so your puppy has time to rest.

Your puppy and other animals

A crucial aspect of socialization is the introduction of your puppy to other dogs as well as other

animals. It is very important that your puppy only meets other animals that you know are well

socialized, as a nasty experience can have a lifelong effect on a puppy. Also be sure the other dogs

are free from any communicable health problems.

By being around adult dogs, your puppy will learn to respect his elders. An older dog will have no

problem putting your little one in his place if he gets a little over excited. Be careful that your puppy

doesn't become overwhelmed by a bigger, playful dog. The last thing you want is for him to be

frightened, so make sure you're on hand to intervene and provide a safe haven if necessary.

There's no reason why your puppy shouldn't meet other four-legged friends, such as cats, horses and

even farm animals. This kind of exposure will help your puppy grow into a confident, friendly adult dog.

Introducing your puppy to other pets in the home

Before introducing your new puppy to other pets in the household, visit your veterinarian to ensure all

pets are healthy and their vaccinations are up to date.

Introduce your new puppy to other pets gradually and one at a time. Keeping your new puppy in a

carrier or behind an expandable baby gate is a good way to supervise the first encounter.

During the introduction, separate the pets at any sign of aggression. Acceptance may take time, so

never leave your new puppy unsupervised with any of your other pets until you are certain they get

along well. Always keep smaller pets, such as hamsters, fish and birds, safely out of reach.

Above all, be patient! It’s a big world out there for your pup and it’s up to you to help him get

acclimated.

COMMUNICATION: AND YOUR PUPPY

For successful training, practice the following basic training steps with your puppy every day. Keep

training sessions short. Your puppy will see everything as a game, so keep him stimulated by

changing up what he's learning. Do each command for about five minutes and come back to it

whenever you can.

Practice your commands in a variety of different places — in the living room, garden, hallway, or

kitchen, and even out on walks — so that he gets used to responding to you in all sorts of situations.

Your puppy will learn very quickly and respond to love and affection as well as rewards. Praise and

rewarding good behavior during all activities, such as sitting still for grooming and traveling quietly in

the car, will help him learn how to be on his best behavior. Obedience training will help build a lasting

bond between the two of you and you'll be rewarded with a happy, well-trained dog.

Table manners

Giving in to your puppy's every need is not a good thing. As your puppy grows, so will his need to

assert himself. Puppies often choose mealtimes as a battleground. But giving in to him is a mistake.

You need to make sure he knows that you won't respond to his every demand.

Your puppy needs to learn that people around him, particularly small children, can be a bit

unpredictable. But he needs to accept that their unpredictable behavior is not threatening. You can

help him do this by imitating a child's behavior. Try stepping quickly towards his bowl — then drop in a

treat. Gently bump into him, while he's eating, or roll toys nearby — anything to cause a distraction but

drop a treat in the bowl to reward him for continuing to eat calmly. Do this every so often, but not at

every meal. If your puppy freezes mid-mouthful, growls or glares at you, stop and try again another

time. If this continues, it's best to seek advice from a veterinary behaviorist or certified dog trainer.

Reading your puppy's body language

Dogs have always communicated with each other by using body language. This involves facial

expressions, body postures, noises and scents. Dogs will use their mouth, eyes, ears, and tail to

express emotions. By learning how to interpret your puppy's body language, you can interpret your

puppy's intentions.

Signs of aggression or submission: If your puppy is feeling brave or aggressive, he'll try to make

himself larger by standing tall, with his ears and tail sticking upright. He'll also push out his chest and

raise the hair on his neck and back. He might also growl and wave his tail slowly.

On the other hand, a submissive dog will try to make himself appear small and act like a puppy. This is

because an adult dog will "tell off" a puppy but not attack him. Submission will take the form of a

sideways crouch near to the ground, his tail held low but wagging away. He may also try to lick the

face of the dominant dog or human. He may even roll on his back.

Your puppy's tail: Most of us recognize that tail wagging is a sign of friendliness and pleasure, but

the tail can indicate other moods, too. The normal way a dog holds his tail varies from breed to breed

but generally speaking, a tail held higher than 45 degrees to the back expresses alertness and

interest.

If your puppy's tail is waved slowly and stiffly, that's an expression of anger. If it's clamped low over his

hindquarters, it means your pet is afraid. An anxious or nervous dog may droop his tail but wag it

stiffly.

COMMUNICATION: AND YOUR PUPPY

Your puppy's eyes: If your dog's eyes are half closed, that's a sign of pleasure or submission, while

eyes wide open can indicate aggression. In the wild, dogs stare at each other until one backs down or

makes a challenge, so you should never attempt to outstare your puppy, especially if he's nervous.

Your puppy's smile: Submissive dogs and some breeds such as Labradors often open their mouths

in a kind of lop-sided "grin", and indeed, it is a sign of friendliness. But when lips are drawn back tightly

to bare the teeth, that's aggression, make no mistake.

Wanting to play: If your puppy wants to play, he'll raise a paw or bow down and bark to attract

attention. Or he might offer up a toy or bound up to another dog to get him to join in a chase.

How your dog sees you: Your puppy will watch you to read your body signals more than he will listen

to you, and he'll quickly learn what you're feeling even without you speaking. If you want to improve

communication with your puppy, you can improve upon your own body language. For example,

crouching down with arms opened out is a welcome sign while towering over him and staring is a sign

of threat.

How your puppy learns: Your puppy will learn very quickly, so it's important that he learns how to

behave properly right from the start. Dogs learn by association, so if your puppy does something good,

reward him. Then the action is much more likely to be repeated. But the reward must be linked to the

action, so he must be rewarded quickly, within a second or two. The reward itself can be a few kibbles

of puppy food or praise, or both. Your puppy needs to be taught what he can and cannot do. Some

harmless behaviors can be ignored, but potentially dangerous ones need to be handled immediately

by interrupting the behavior with a sharp "no" to get his attention — be sure to reward him when he

stops and pays attention to you. Shouting or hitting will not help your puppy learn.

Understanding barking and whining

Barking

Barking is a totally natural aspect of a dog's behavior, but you, your family, and your neighbors will be

happier if you can bring it under control. It’s hardly surprising many people have barking problems with

their dogs, since most dogs have no idea whether barking is something good or bad. That's because

our reaction to his barking is confusing to the dog. In his eyes, when he barks, he is sometimes

ignored, while at other times he is shouted at to stop, and then again, he may be encouraged to bark

if, for example, there's a suspicious stranger nearby. To help your dog know when barking is

acceptable, you simply need to teach him that he may bark until he is told to stop. "Stop barking"

should be considered as a command for obedience rather than a telling off. Start the training by letting

your dog bark two or three times, praise him for sounding the alarm, then say, "Stop barking" and hold

out a treat in front of him. Your dog will stop immediately if only due to the fact that he can't sniff the

treat while barking. After a few seconds of quiet, give him the reward. Gradually increase the time from

when the barking stops to the giving of the reward. If you are concerned about excessive barking that

you have no control over, you should seek advice from your veterinarian about next steps, such as

specialist training or therapy.

Whining

If you comfort your puppy whenever he whines, it may actually make things worse. It will make your

puppy think he's being praised for whining and get him into the habit of repeating it for your affection.

You can help your puppy learn to stop whining by not going to him when he whines. By ignoring your

puppy, and only giving him attention and praise when he stops whining, he'll learn that whining and

whimpering is not the way to earn your approval.

SHEDDING: TIPS TO REDUCE SHEDDING

BATHING & GROOMING

Brush your pet regularly. Regular brushing reduces shedding, helps to reduce the

undercoat without damaging the top-coat, and helps to bring out the pet’s natural oils,

promoting healthy skin and a shiny topcoat. Start brushing at a very young age to get

your pet used to the sensation.

Bathe your pet as needed with an oatmeal-based shampoo. Dogs and cats benefit

from bathing and grooming. A clean pet gets petted more and therefore a clean pet is

a happy pet.

We all love our pets, but we do not love the fur they leave all over our homes and on us.

Here are some tips to reduce shedding:

DIET

Provide a high-quality diet–look for foods that contain vitamins E and C (tocopherols

and ascorbic acid) as a preservative rather than BHT, BHA, and ethoxyquin.

SUPPLEMENTS

Supplements you give to your animal should be tailored to them. Please consult with

your Heartfelt veterinarian..

VACCINES: PUPPY CARE SCHEDULE

Please note not all vaccines are for all pets. Your veterinarian will discuss with you the

vaccinations that are right for your pet and its lifestyle. In addition to the schedule below, we

recommend year-round flea and tick prevention.

WEEKS

1st DA2PP

(Canine

Distemper,

Adenovirus

Type 1 & 2,

Parainfluenza,

& Parvovirus)

Fecal Intestinal

Parasite

Screen

Deworming

Treatment

Consider Pet

Health

Insurance &

Preventive Plan

Flea/Tick &

Heartworm

Preventative

Bordetella

(Kennel Cough)

1st Influenza

Vaccine

WEEKS

2nd DA2PP

(Canine

Distemper,

Adenovirus

Type 1 & 2,

Parainfluenza,

& Parvovirus)

Flea/Tick &

Heartworm

Preventative

1st

Leptospirosis

Vaccine

2nd Influenza

Vaccine

Bordetella

(Kennel Cough)

WEEKS

3rd DA2PP

(Canine

Distemper,

Adenovirus

Type 1 & 2,

Parainfluenza,

& Parvovirus)

2nd

Leptospirosis

Vaccine

Rabies Vaccine

2nd

Fecal Intestinal

Parasite

Screen (if

needed)

Flea/Tick &

Heartworm

Preventative

5-6

MONTHS

Spay or Neuter

Procedure

ID/ Microchip

Heartworm Test

Flea/Tick &

Heartworm

Preventative

(Proheart6)

YEAR

DA2PP (Canine

Distemper,

Adenovirus

Type 1 & 2,

Parainfluenza,

& Parvovirus)

Bordetella

(Kennel Cough)

Leptospirosis

Vaccine

Rabies Vaccine

Fecal Intestinal

Parasite

Screen

Influenza

Vaccine

Deworming

Treatment

HOME HAZARDS: BE MINDFUL OF THESE

GENERAL HOME HAZARDS

Plants*

Drugs, Medicine, Vitamins

Fabric Softener

Mothballs

Bleach

Disinfectants, Detergents, &

Cleaning Products

Solvents & Removers

Potpourri

Tobacco Products

Lighter Fluid

Gasoline

Oil & Antifreeze/Coolant

De-Icing Salts

Pesticides, Insect or Rodent

Traps & Bait

Lead

Wax

Cotton Swabs

Pins, Needles, Tacks Paper

Clips

Rubber Bands

Hair Pins & Fasteners

Twists & Ties

String, Yarn, Dental Floss

Buttons

Coins

Small Balls/Toys

Batteries

Electric Cords

Glass & Sharp Objects

Fireplaces

Fire Pits & Grills

Compost

Fertilizers & Mulch

Algae

Bodies of Water

Sinks & Tubs

Washers & Dryers

Toilets

Doors & Windows

Balconies

Fences & Gates

Branches & Sticks

HARMFUL FOODS

Avocados

Chocolate

Coffee

Onions

Garlic

Grapes & Raisins

Macadamia Nuts

Tea Leaves

Alcohol

Salt

Moldy/Spoiled Foods

Fatty Foods

Raw Yeast Doug

Gum, Candies, & Foods

Sweetened with Xylitol

For more information:

www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control/toxic-and-

non-toxic-plants

HAZARDS: PLANTS

PLANT HAZARDS

Aloe

Amaryllis

Andromeda Japonica

Avocado

Asparagus Fern

Australian Nut

Autumn Crocus

Azalea

Anemone

Apricot

Arrow Grass

Buttercup

Belladonna

Bird of Paradise

Bittersweet

Black Locust

Burning Bush

Buckeye

Buddhist Pine

Balsam

Baneberry

Black-Eyed Susan

Bleeding Heart

Bloodroot

Boxwood

For more information:

www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control/toxic-and-non-toxic-plants

Corn Flower Crocus

Castor Bean

Caladium

Ceriman

Clematis

Cordatum

Corn Plant

Cycads

Cyclamen

Cactus

Cherry (Most Forms)

Chrysanthemum

Daphne

Daffodil

Delphinium

Dieffenbachia

Dumbcane

Euonymus

Eucalyptus

Elephant Ears

Fiddle Leaf Philodendron

Flax

Four O-Clock

Foxglove

Ferns (Most Forms)

Gladiolas

Golden Pothos

Golden Glow

Heavenly Bamboo

Honeysuckle

Hurricane Plant

Hyacinth

Hydrangea

Henbane

Hemlock

Horse Chestnut

Iris

Ivy (Most Forms)

Jerusalem Cherry

Jimson Weed

Jack In The Pulpit

Japanese Plum

Java Beans

Jonquil

Kalanchoe

Lantana

Lilies (Most Forms)

Lupine

Locoweed

Marble Queen

Morning Glory

Mother In Law

Mountain Laurel

Mistletoe

Monkshood

Mushrooms

Narcissue

Nephthysis

Nightshade

Nutmeg

Oleander

Panda

Philodendron

Poison Hemlock

Precatory Bean

Privet

Peach

Pear

Peony

Periwinkle

Pimpernel

Poinsettia

Poison Ivy

Poison Oak

Pokeweed

Poppy

Potato

Red Emerald

Rhododendron

Ribbon Plant

Rhubarb

Sage Palm

Satin Pothos

Scheflera

Striped Dracaena

Sweetheart Ivy

Scotch Broom

Skunk Cabbage

Star Of Bethlehem

Sweet Pea

Tulip

Tobacco

Tomato

Virginia Creeper

Water Hemlock

Wisteria

Wild Barley

Yew

Yucca

HAZARDS: HOLIDAYS

VALENTINE’S DAY

Many types of flowers and plants found in

bouquets are harmful to dogs and cats if they

are ingested (see our list of hazardous plants).

Chocolate can cause vomiting, diarrhea,

hyperactivity, abnormal heart rhythm, seizures,

and in severe cases chocolate poisoning can

be fatal (see our list of harmful foods).

EASTER

Fake grass may look appetizing to your pets, but it could

cause them to choke or obstruct their intestines if ingested.

Small toys and plastic Easter eggs can cause your pet to

choke or damage their intestinal tract.

Chocolate can cause vomiting, diarrhea, hyperactivity,

abnormal heart rhythm, seizures, and in severe cases

chocolate poisoning can be fatal. Xylitol (artificial sweetener)

in candy and gum is toxic to your pet (see our list of harmful

foods).

OF JULY

Fireworks can scare your pets,

making them highly nervous or

even run off. Fireworks can also

cause serious injuries if

detonated near your pet. If

ingested, they are toxic.

With more people and food

around during picnics and

parties, be mindful of food

accessible to your pet (see our

list of harmful foods).

HALLOWEEN

Repeatedly opening doors for trick-or-treaters can increase the

chances of your pet running out. If your pet likes to run out or is

not friendly to other people, consider crating or keeping them in a

secure area.

Pets are naturally curious and may be attracted to lights and

flames. Dogs and cats could get burned on candles or knock them

over and cause a fire.

Chocolate can cause vomiting, diarrhea, hyperactivity, abnormal

heart rhythm, seizures, and in severe cases chocolate poisoning

can be fatal. Xylitol (artificial sweetener) in candy, gum and mints

is toxic to your pet (see our list of harmful foods).

THANKSGIVING

Animal bones, especially turkey, chicken, and other small animals, are very different from the large bones

you find in the pet store. These small bones splinter easily and can cause serious internal damage if

swallowed. Never give them to your pet.

Your pet will most likely become curious when they smell something cooking. Keep an eye on hot containers

so that your pet does not tip them over and get burned.

There are many foods that are dangerous to your pet (see our list of harmful foods).

HAZARDS: HOLIDAYS

NEW YEAR’S EVE

Balloons and confetti can cause your pet to choke or obstruct their intestines if ingested. Keep an eye on

your pets when they’re around these items or move them to an area that is not decorated.

New Year’s Eve can be a loud holiday. Unfortunately, loud noises can frighten pets and cause them to be

overly nervous or run off. Keep your pets away from noise makers, loud music and other sounds that startle

them.

Watch your pets around party foods and alcoholic beverages, that are often left unattended. There are many

foods that are dangerous to your pet (see our list of harmful foods).

CHRISTMAS

Holiday plants like poinsettia, holly, lilies and mistletoe are all toxic to dogs and cats. (see our list of harmful

plants).

Ribbons may look adorable on your pet but placing them around your pet’s neck may cause them to choke.

If swallowed, your pet could choke, or it could cause internal trauma.

Antique bubbling lights are attractive decorations, but may contain methylene chloride, which is a highly toxic

chemical.

Fire salts contain chemicals that could be harmful to your pets.

Angel hair is a form of spun glass and can be irritating to the eyes and skin and could cause intestinal

obstruction if eaten.

Christmas tree water containing preservatives or stagnant water could result in stomach upset if ingested.

Styrofoam can cause your pets to choke if swallowed.

Ornaments can look like toys to your pet, but they can cause serious injury, especially if your pet breaks or

swallows them.

Tinsel can cause choking or internal trauma if swallowed.

Pets are naturally curious and may be attracted to lights and flames. Dogs and cats could get burned on

candles or knock them over and cause a fire.

Your pet will most likely become curious when they smell something cooking or baking. Keep an eye on hot

containers so that your pet does not tip them over and get burned.

There are many foods that are dangerous to your pet (see our list of harmful foods).

HOW TO GREET A DOG: & WHAT TO AVOID

KIDS & DOGS: HOW TO INTERACT

BE KIND

Be polite and kind to pets. Learn to recognize when your dog is scared or anxious.

Comfortable Uncomfortable

PLAY APPROPRIATELY

Play games that are appropriate for your pet or teach him training tricks.

Playing

Fetch

Training &

Teaching

Walking &

Running

Hide-N-Seek

ALWAYS REMEMBER

Supervise your kids to avoid accidents and train your dog to associate the kids with positive

experiences for appropriate pet-child interaction.

COMMON ISSUES: PREVANTABLE DISEASES & PROBLEMS

Knowing about common dog diseases and being aware of appropriate prevention and treatment can

better help you provide excellent care. Some of the most common and serious dog diseases have

been made less common through vaccines; however, these diseases continue to threaten a dog

that lacks proper immunization. The following diseases can be prevented through vaccinations.

Distemper

Canine distemper is caused by a highly contagious, airborne virus. It affects the dog’s respiratory,

gastrointestinal, and nervous systems. Early symptoms are those of a “cold” — runny eyes and

nose, fever, cough, and often diarrhea. Later in the course of disease there may be nervous

twitching, paralysis, and seizures (convulsions). There is no successful treatment.

Hepatitis (Adenovirus)

Canine infectious hepatitis is a viral disease transmitted by urine, feces, or saliva of infected

animals. It affects the liver, kidney, and blood vessels. The signs are fever, tissue swelling, and

hemorrhage. Treatment may require blood transfusions and intensive care.

Leptospirosis

Canine leptospirosis is caused by bacteria spread through contact with nasal secretions, urine, or

saliva of infected animals. The disease also can infect humans. Lepto infects the kidneys and

causes fever, vomiting, diarrhea, and jaundice. Treatment requires antibiotics, intensive care, and

intravenous (IV) fluid therapy. Dogs that recover may be left with permanent kidney damage.

Kennel Cough

Canine infectious tracheobronchitis is caused by several viruses (including parainfluenza) and

bacteria (including Bordetella). This highly contagious disease attacks the respiratory system,

causing a chronic, dry, hacking cough. It is generally a mild infection, but it may progress to severe

pneumonia in young puppies or older dogs.

Parvo

Canine parvovirus is a deadly contagious viral disease that is spread by contact with infected fecal

material. The virus is difficult to kill and is easily spread. It attacks the gastrointestinal system,

causing fever, lethargy, vomiting, bloody diarrhea, and rapid dehydration. Treatment requires

intensive IV fluid and supportive therapy and has a variable rate of success.

Rabies

Rabies is a viral infection of all mammals, including man. It is transmitted by the bite of an infected

animal. The virus infects the central nervous system, causing a brain infection (encephalitis), which

is always fatal. There is no treatment for dog or man after symptoms appear. However, a vaccine is

effective in preventing the disease in people if it is administered soon after their possible exposure.

COMMON ISSUES: PREVANTABLE DISEASES & PROBLEMS

Heartworms

Heartworms are devastating internal parasites that live in a dog’s heart and in the big vessels near

the heart, where they cause severe damage to the circulatory system and lungs. They are

transmitted by the bite of a mosquito that has bitten an infected dog. Treatment is difficult, but

preventive measures are available. Dogs should be tested annually. If the test is positive, treatment

may be attempted. If the test is negative, preventive medication can be given to your dog on a

monthly basis throughout the year. Consult with your veterinarian to determine the best heartworm

prevention plan for your dog.

Tapeworms

Tapeworms are long, segmented worms. They are transmitted when a dog ingests a larval stage of

the worm found in a flea or the raw meat of small mammals. A dog that hunts on its own or has had

fleas will likely develop tapeworms. Individual tapeworm segments are easily seen in freshly passed

feces. Special deworming medication is required for treatment.

Roundworms

The long, thin spaghetti-like Ascarids worms inhabit the intestine. Some types of these worms can

be seen in an infected dog’s feces. These worms commonly create a problem in puppies, where

they cause stunted growth, lethargy, diarrhea, vomiting, and a pot-bellied appearance. In severe

cases, ascarids can cause seizures (convulsions).

Hookworms

Hookworms attach themselves to the intestinal wall and suck blood from the dog. They can be

transmitted in utero and via the mother’s milk to newborn puppies. Consequently, puppies may have

hookworms at a very early age. Signs of infection include lethargy, stunted growth, anemia, and

dark, tarry feces. Hookworms are a potentially life-threatening parasite at any age. Blood

transfusions may be necessary in advanced cases.

Whipworms

These are tiny worms that inhabit and develop in the lower bowel. They often cause chronic watery

diarrhea and weight loss. Their life cycle is longer than most intestinal parasites, and proper timing

of repeated deworming is important for their control.

Influenza

Dog flu, or canine influenza virus, is an infectious respiratory disease caused by an influenza A

virus, similar to the viral strains that cause influenza in people. There are two known strains of dog

flu found in the United States: H3N8. H3N2. Signs of influenza include coughing (both moist & dry,

sneezing, nasal discharge, purulent nasal discharge, runny eyes, fever, lethargy, difficulty breathing.

Dog flu symptoms resemble kennel cough symptoms, which is also an illness you should talk to

your veterinarian about as soon as you notice symptoms.

COMMON ISSUES: PREVANTABLE DISEASES & PROBLEMS

Fleas

Fleas are readily seen in a dog’s haircoat. They are pencil-lead size, brown, compressed side to

side and seem to be in constant motion. They are seen most easily at the base of the tail, between

the ears, or in the short hair on the abdomen. Many treatments are available; however, the dog’s

environment must be treated just as vigorously, due to infant flea stages that are on your pet. Flea

control should be implemented at the earliest sign of flea infestation because fleas multiply rapidly

and a small problem becomes a major one in just a few days. While most dogs scratch with fleas,

some dogs are also allergic to flea saliva. For them, one flea bite can set off an allergic reaction of

severe skin inflammation.

Ticks

Ticks are most prevalent in early spring and are most commonly found on outdoor dogs that get into

underbrush and wooded areas. Ticks can transmit several diseases and should be removed with

care. Grasp the tick near its head with a pair of tweezers and pull away from the skin with a firm

tug. Do not try to kill the tick first. Disinfect the area with alcohol to prevent infection.

Lice

These are small, light-colored parasites that are transmitted dog to dog. They can be seen at the

base of the hair. Signs of lice infestation (pediculosis) are a rough and dry haircoat, matted hair,

and scratching and biting of the skin.

Mange

Mites cause two types of mange in dogs. Sarcoptic mange is caused by the sarcoptic mite, a

microscopic parasite similar to a chigger. These mites are transmitted from dog to dog and can also

infect human skin. They burrow into the skin and cause severe itching and consequent skin irritation

and inflammation. Hair loss can be severe and generalized over the body. Diagnosis by a

veterinarian is essential, and treatment is usually quite effective. All animals in contact with the

infected dog should be treated at the same time.

Demodectic mange is caused by demodectic mites that destroy the hair follicle in which they reside.

This causes small patches of hair loss that can spread to the entire body. The initial skin lesions

may become infected and are difficult to treat. The tendency to develop demodectic mange is

thought to be hereditary. It is seen most frequently in pure-bred dogs. Demodectic mange is not

contagious. Diagnosis and treatment by a veterinarian are necessary; treatment is difficult.

Ear Mites

These mites tunnel in the skin of the outer ear canal. They are easily transmitted from dog to dog or

cat to dog. They can be seen in the ear with magnification. Ear mites are suspected when dark

coffee-ground debris is present in the ears. Infestation signs are head shaking and scratching at the

ears. Left untreated, ear mites predispose the ear to secondary bacterial infection. Treatment

requires cleaning of the ear by a veterinarian and use of mite-killing insecticide. Be sure to treat any

other cats or dogs in the household.